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- #576
Yeah, 2 batteries are a kick in the wallet. Battery quality has gone down tremendously while prices have gone up.
THP Auto Repair Shop
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- #577
Like so many things hahaha
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- #578
I installed the VCM muzzler last night on my 2016 Honda Odyssey. I used and 100 ohm resistor and put it in the ground circuit going to the ECT sensor. This tricks the PCM into never activating the Variable Cylinder Management program. It worked well last night. I will update this thread on how it is working as time progresses.
That’s what I paid for two AGM’s for my truck. Only difference is I installed them myself.
Nothing for vehicles is cheap anymore.
I had the same thing in my wife's SUV.
Feels like just yesterday I'd walk out of Autozone with a new battery for $90...but those days are over I guess.
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- #581
Yup. Absolutely broke my mind when they rang up.
One of my cars I use mainly for drag racing, and put the car on as much of a diet as I possibly could. One easy place to cut weight was with a light weight lithium battery. $900 for one battery. That was a hard purchase to swallow.
Well I think you can still get lawn and garden batteries there. They should still be under $100
had to replace our battery and "brake pad sensor", i have never heard of a break pad sensor. and to make it worse they greatly overcharged us after i checked out the price online. i absolutely hate mechanics (sorry to any decent thp mechanics) but they all seem like P.O.S.
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Parts online will always be cheaper. But you also have to look at the manufacture. OEM parts are expensive and aftermarket, if available, are going to be cheaper.
Most of the guys in the back actually doing the work (mechanics) are good people and they’re making a fraction of what you’re paying. Labor rates are going up, but most of the techs are still only getting $20-35 an hour working on cars. So, for example, if you’re paying $150/hour for labor that tech is only getting a small chunk.
Talking about parts and how expensive they are, I just replaced the fuel injection control module (FICM) in my 2005 Silverado 2500 Duramax. That particular module was only made for a year and a half and is discontinued. The only options are getting a rebuilt one, or sending yours off to get rebuilt. I didn’t have the 3-4 weeks to send it off so I went with an already refurbished one for the cool price of $2500 and a $500 core. It’s running like a top now, and I’ll be off to UPS tomorrow to send this broken one back.
With the recent discussion on octane ratings and ethanol content, I would like a second opinion on something.
I saw several recommendations on switching up octane values occasionally, but from what I have been told that is actually counter-productive to fuel efficiency. My understanding is that the computer is constantly calculating and adjusting fuel trim, and using a different octane (ie. higher) alters this calculation and the end result is a longer period before the fuel efficiency reaches peak value.
Truth or just another internet theory?
I saw several recommendations on switching up octane values occasionally, but from what I have been told that is actually counter-productive to fuel efficiency. My understanding is that the computer is constantly calculating and adjusting fuel trim, and using a different octane (ie. higher) alters this calculation and the end result is a longer period before the fuel efficiency reaches peak value.
Truth or just another internet theory?
My understanding is if the manufacturer doesn't recommend using a higher octane fuel in your vehicle, it's a WOFTAM doing it.
Higher octane fuels are usually for higher compression and forced induction engines because they resist knock better. So, if your cap or owners manual says 87 or regular, you're wasting your money putting 91 or 93 in it because it has no benefit.
That was my understanding as well. I hate like heck listening to the spark knock, but they call for 87 so 87 the truck gets
The starter in my 07 Accord is going. Light is flashing, I was hoping that it was just the fuse that went out so I changed it but it didn't stop the light blinking.
Took it to the shop and they said 800 for a new starter for me. Obviously if I have to pay it I have to pay it but how long until you're warned that your starter is failing until it goes out on average?
That's the primary reason my wife is new car shopping for us to get a truck.
Took it to the shop and they said 800 for a new starter for me. Obviously if I have to pay it I have to pay it but how long until you're warned that your starter is failing until it goes out on average?
That's the primary reason my wife is new car shopping for us to get a truck.
How long is a piece of string?
Could be now or 2 years from now. When the starter went on my Trailblazer I had no warning whatsoever. I went to Walmart just fine but when I tried to start it, the starter failed instantly.
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- #592
99% percent of most vehicles have no way to tell what octane level of fuel you are using. The PCM/ECM(computer) monitors O2 sensors and adjusts fuel trims that way during closed loop (over 140 degrees coolant temp). The O2 sensor sensors outside oxygen values then compares that to the amount of oxygen found in your exhaust. Gasoline formulations change during different times of the year i.e. "winter gas", and this can alter how your car performs until the computer recalibrates itself. You can over-octane an engine and it will decrease performance. Like using 110 octane fuel on something designed for 87. Long story short, use the octane fuel your owner's manual calls for.
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Thanks for the explanation! For the record I hate winter gas
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- #594
What light is flashing?
There is a green key on the dash that signifies a few different things, it flashes like 3-5 times after you turn off the engine. I have it the Google and tried to self diagnose and fix before taking it in.
That green key symbol is for the immobilizer system. If there's a problem with that system, it's no wonder it would have issues starting.
If a shop want's to replace the starter because of the immobilizer, run away really fast.
If a shop want's to replace the starter because of the immobilizer, run away really fast.
Well as some know, I had some issues with my truck on the way home from the Morgan Cup. Transmission is done. Not sure if I wanna fix it or just get rid of it. I feel like if I pay to fix it I have to hang on to it for a little while.
I had the exact same conundrum about 6 months ago.
Brand new transmission, lines, etc. - Cost me about 6.5k
For me it boiled down to the fact my truck was paid off, and had less than 70k miles on it. I will definitely be driving it for the foreseeable future now
Mine is also paid off but with 112K miles. Cost to fix probably similar to yours. May just hang on to it since my youngest is about to start driving but trading it in to save anything on something new sounds good too Lol
Ya I would definitely at least see what they are offering - I did the same and I was sick at how little I would have gotten.