In Home Minor (I think) electrical work....

[JW Smoove]

So, I have done a lot of electrical work in my houses over the years, 100% problem free. My (wonderful) wife bought a chandelier for her office (insert eye roll of choice here). I had to put it together - pretty straightforward - 6 arms each with wires that go to a junction of sorts with spring clips (i guess I'd call them) for power. Each wire (1 black, 1 white), went to a clip that is snapped down - this device has up to 8 holes for wires, I needed only 6). Anyway then each wire is locked into place. Sorry for that awful description.

Anyway, put it all together and then hung it, fortunately that was pretty fast and short ladder - as the knee was not happy. Bought the new low voltage whatever they are lights - and it will not work.

Tried bulbs in other fixtures all good.

I assume I pulled a wire when connecting to the ceiling wires. Will check that first (naturally) otherwise what could it be?

I am prepared to wire it up to a plug to test the internal wiring (if the ceiling/power lines are as they should be.

This is normally childs play I mean, I have wired up new construction and now all of a sudden I can't install a replacement fixture?

 

[kiwichris]

Pictures will tell the story a whole lot easier.

Also, when you flipped the switch after you installed, did you hear or smell anything? Asking as you may have popped the breaker hence why you're not seeing any light

 

[JW Smoove]

Pictures will tell the story a whole lot easier.

Also, when you flipped the switch after you installed, did you hear or smell anything? Asking as you may have popped the breaker hence why you're not seeing any light

Thanks - Yea, photos would help - no question, if I end up opening the harness area thing, I will shoot some. I turn off the power to the item being worked then after complete turn it back on at the box. So no, no smoke, no noise and the breaker did not flip (checked it again yesterday).

I'll likely not mess with it again until at least tomorrow - just wanted to troubleshoot in case I missed something.

Thanks!

 

[BigDill]

Without pictures I am guessing. But I am assuming that the other two holes may be for hot, or otherwise may need a jumper? I don't know, but more info would definitely help.

 

[JW Smoove]

Without pictures I am guessing. But I am assuming that the other two holes may be for hot, or otherwise may need a jumper? I don't know, but more info would definitely help.

No, I am doing a poor job describing. This thing each arm is wired and those wires go to a plastic and metal (2 of them actually) one for white the other for black. Then they are already wired up the main arm where I attach to the main current. I will see if I can find a picture on line.

 

[BigDill]

No, I am doing a poor job describing. This thing each arm is wired and those wires go to a plastic and metal (2 of them actually) one for white the other for black. Then they are already wired up the main arm where I attach to the main current. I will see if I can find a picture on line.

 

[kiwichris]

 

[JW Smoove]

No good photos - it's basically a wiring harness of sorts with a pressure or spring loaded arm for each wire (one harness for black and the other for white), each light/arm is wired to the harnesses and the harness then goes to the house via one white/one black.

Hope that helps a little?

 

[JW Smoove]

 

[DataDude]

So, I have done a lot of electrical work in my houses over the years, 100% problem free. My (wonderful) wife bought a chandelier for her office (insert eye roll of choice here). I had to put it together - pretty straightforward - 6 arms each with wires that go to a junction of sorts with spring clips (i guess I'd call them) for power. Each wire (1 black, 1 white), went to a clip that is snapped down - this device has up to 8 holes for wires, I needed only 6). Anyway then each wire is locked into place. Sorry for that awful description.

Anyway, put it all together and then hung it, fortunately that was pretty fast and short ladder - as the knee was not happy. Bought the new low voltage whatever they are lights - and it will not work.

Tried bulbs in other fixtures all good.

I assume I pulled a wire when connecting to the ceiling wires. Will check that first (naturally) otherwise what could it be?

I am prepared to wire it up to a plug to test the internal wiring (if the ceiling/power lines are as they should be.

This is normally childs play I mean, I have wired up new construction and now all of a sudden I can't install a replacement fixture?

Is this anything like Christmas lights where every bulb in the setup has to have a bulb to keep the current flowing?

 

[JW Smoove]

Is this anything like Christmas lights where every bulb in the setup has to have a bulb to keep the current flowing?

Interesting but i don’t believe so. All the wires go to the harness they are not linear.

 

[Junkyard]

Is it possible to leave the fixture hanging from the ceiling but disconnect the leads from the junction box (like a ceiling fan)? If so, I'd be tempted to use a cheater cord (extension cord with the female plug cut off) to test just the fixture.

I think you're going down the right path, it sounds like one (or more) of the connectors for the individual arms could be the issue

 

[Golfers Anonymous]

The quick connects you’re describing may have grabbed onto the insulation rather than conductor and current won’t travel. Is the breaker on? Did it trip if arc fault?

 

[JW Smoove]

The quick connects you’re describing may have grabbed onto the insulation rather than conductor and current won’t travel. Is the breaker on? Did it trip if arc fault?

I’m thinking this as well. No tripping at all. So I’m assuming connection at the live line is intact? That’s my first check though.

Is it possible to leave the fixture hanging from the ceiling but disconnect the leads from the junction box (like a ceiling fan)? If so, I'd be tempted to use a cheater cord (extension cord with the female plug cut off) to test just the fixture.

I think you're going down the right path, it sounds like one (or more) of the connectors for the individual arms could be the issue

No i can’t hang it up there it’s either up or not. I’ll examine everything then if needed connect it to a plug and try just plugging it in for another test.

 

[1860VS]

LEDs will not work if your polarity is reversed.

 

[Coloradomrg]

Wago, or whatever brand connecter they sent suck for real connectivity. We don't allow them in our spec's. Personally, I'd replace them with wire nuts.




If you had a hot/neutral crossed up, you'd probably trip the breaker. Could be that you didn't quite lock in a connection, or that one came loose, or as noted above you are not making connection with the wire. If each arm has it's own wiring, it's unlikely that the issue exists between the connectors and the lamps.

One other thing - if the switch is a dimmer switch, and you purchased LED lamps, you may need to replace the switch. Older dimmer switches don't play nice with LED.

 

[Hitsnmisses]

Yeah na , happily pull wires and lay conduits … as for connection to mains
No …. If it’s like for like identical it should be ok ish … always err on side of caution ..

There’s a reason why it’s a licensed trade … and here the most rigorous standard in the world …

Pay the price and it rewards you … if you do it wrong and get hurt , or fire etc .. that’s no good outcomes

 

[OldeDude]

Your two terminal blocks each have eight outputs for the individual lights (six in use), and one input to connect to your house wiring. The input side of the terminal block would be making a connection to all eight outputs either internally or through factory installed jumpers on the back/input side. I would suspect that a factory connection on the input sides of one of the terminal blocks is at fault. So that would mean that the black or white wires coming out of the chandelier that you connected to your home wiring, probably with wire nuts, may not be connected inside the chandelier. A simple check with a voltmeter could verify where the problem is.

 

[JW Smoove]

LEDs will not work if your polarity is reversed.

This woukd be a very easy fix just switch wires. Thanks !!

 

[JW Smoove]

Your two terminal blocks each have eight outputs for the individual lights (six in use), and one input to connect to your house wiring. The input side of the terminal block would be making a connection to all eight outputs either internally or through factory installed jumpers on the back/input side. I would suspect that a factory connection on the input sides of one of the terminal blocks is at fault. So that would mean that the black or white wires coming out of the chandelier that you connected to your home wiring, probably with wire nuts, may not be connected inside the chandelier. A simple check with a voltmeter could verify where the problem is.

Where the bulbs are? Is that where i check?

 

[Coloradomrg]

Where the bulbs are? Is that where i check?

At the wiring where your terminal blocks are.

 

[JW Smoove]

Wago, or whatever brand connecter they sent suck for real connectivity. We don't allow them in our spec's. Personally, I'd replace them with wire nuts.


View attachment 9252030

If you had a hot/neutral crossed up, you'd probably trip the breaker. Could be that you didn't quite lock in a connection, or that one came loose, or as noted above you are not making connection with the wire. If each arm has it's own wiring, it's unlikely that the issue exists between the connectors and the lamps.

One other thing - if the switch is a dimmer switch, and you purchased LED lamps, you may need to replace the switch. Older dimmer switches don't play nice with LED.

New construction house with dimmers that do work with leds. That said I’ll be adding a dinner to this once it’s working. So thank you for that tip.

 

[OldeDude]

At the wiring where your terminal blocks are.

 

[JW Smoove]

LEDs will not work if your polarity is reversed.

So might a test with a conventional bulb in one socket tell me if this is the issue?

 

[Coloradomrg]

So might a test with a conventional bulb in one socket tell me if this is the issue?

I’d have done that already, but it’s unlikely that the LED has anything to do with this. You connected white to white, and black to black.