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Epoxy?

Space Bandito said:
Those are the different volumes available. The 4oz, 8oz, come in two separate bottles, whereas the smaller volume comes in the little dispenser, but it DOES NOT come with a plunger, so you'll need an epoxy gun to use that.

Go with the 4oz kit. It's more than you need for your project
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Oh wait, I just realized you actually recommended this.


So I can just go with that instead. I'll still order the tape and grip solvent from Golfworks I think?

Well, wait haha, that crap is expensive! Maybe i do go with the ol' golfworks set.
 
V14_Heels said:
You go Tour Set Epoxy or Quick Set Epoxy?

I think I'm fine with a 24 hour cure vs. 30 minutes, is that the difference here? Once is stronger better but takes more time, vs. one is quicker but not as strong?
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I've never noticed a strength difference. I like the quick set because I am always all over my shop. Tour Set (24 hour) is great, but I'm afraid I'll bump a club or something silly will happen, and I'll have to start over. 30 min is all the quick set needs, and it works great.
 
CTRosarian said:
Golf epoxy has a low glass transition temperature so you can heat it up with a propane torch and remove the head from the shaft.
If you have steel shafts you can use boiling water and twist off the shafts, but this is RUIN graphite shafts.
Graphite needs to be pulled off with a shaft puller unless the shaft is already toast and you don't care about damaging it.
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Yea I've already got the steel shaft removed.

I have a shaft extractor for graphite but still really no idea how to do it. I haven't really fiddled with it, I think i still need a low amount of heat even with a shaft extractor for grahite right?
 
Yes, you use the same propane torch for graphite or steel to take off the head.

The other issue is cutting the shaft. A SW may require that you cut off both the tip and butt to the proper lengths.
The shaft needs to be less flexible than with a long iron.
A small Harbor Freight cutoff saw works great for that. With graphite you have to be careful about splintering the shaft.
 
Space Bandito said:
@V14_Heels if you're looking at grip solvent, go with the Brompton (on amazon.) It's not any different or better than anything else, but it comes in a spray bottle which is super convenient.
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This guy? Also just realized the brampton epoxieis are just cheaper than golfworks

I just have to idea on quantity. Say I'm going to regrip 25 clubs over the next year or so, will 8 oz get me there?

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I love shopping for deals. I found that I can buy a set of thirteen Dri-Tac grips with grip solvent, tape strips, and a rubber device to hold the shaft in a vice for less than the cost of just the grips alone.
 
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V14_Heels said:
This guy? Also just realized the brampton epoxieis are just cheaper than golfworks

I just have to idea on quantity. Say I'm going to regrip 25 clubs over the next year or so, will 8 oz get me there?

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for 25 clubs, you might want the 32oz bottle. You should use a lot of solvent when re-gripping.
 
Golfworks adapter epoxy and wedge guys grip tape are what I use.

Brampton solvent for the grips.
 
Grip solvent? Why Brompton??? Do you have some paint thinner or charcoal starter fluid?
Heck I've even used gasoline
 
just don't use toluene. It's too quick to evaporate and you may wind up with a grip half on and have... difficulty getting it on the rest of the way.:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::cautious: don't ask me how Iknow.

And you're going to need something to hold the shaft in a vise without crushing it... unless you already have one.
 
Scorp said:
just don't use toluene. It's too quick to evaporate and you may wind up with a grip half on and have... difficulty getting it on the rest of the way.:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::cautious: don't ask me how Iknow.

And you're going to need something to hold the shaft in a vise without crushing it... unless you already have one.
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Don't use Trinitrotoluene either, otherwise you may wind up all over the place.
 
Curious if anyone has ever had a bottle of bramptons quick cure part A just harden solid in the bottle? Went to use it last night to put an adapter on and the A bottle was solid. Cap was on. Haven't used is for a few months. Is it sensitive to cold or just a short shelf life?? B part bottle is fine. Luckily had a set of long cure bottles to use.
 
jbb2388 said:
Curious if anyone has ever had a bottle of bramptons quick cure part A just harden solid in the bottle? Went to use it last night to put an adapter on and the A bottle was solid. Cap was on. Haven't used is for a few months. Is it sensitive to cold or just a short shelf life?? B part bottle is fine. Luckily had a set of long cure bottles to use.
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Funny you say that, I had that happen to me last week. It was in the garage (usually around 45-50* F), went to squeeze and it was hard as a rock. Guessing I didn't have the cap on all the way or it was just too cold.
 
bap1130 said:
Funny you say that, I had that happen to me last week. It was in the garage (usually around 45-50* F), went to squeeze and it was hard as a rock. Guessing I didn't have the cap on all the way or it was just too cold.
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My cap was on fine. Ordered a new bottle everythings good
 
From the Brampton FAQ

Place your sealed bottle of Part A into a container of hot water for 15 minutes. This will return Part A to the original viscosity for proper performance.
 
Space Bandito said:
for 25 clubs, you might want the 32oz bottle. You should use a lot of solvent when re-gripping.
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If you catch the runoff in a drip pan and recycle it, you can reuse it. 8 ounces for 25 clubs over the course of a year would be plenty. But 32 oz is better than running out when you need it I guess.
 
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