Titleist 910 D2 & D3 Drivers

Haha I mean I would hope so. I only plan on playing with it once to see what works for me. Then, in the future, I'd love to change again as my swing continually improves.

Few question:

Do you guys think the stock Kai'li shaft is good enough? Is the RIP better? (105 SS)
What do the loft adjustments do for spin? Does increasing the loft raise or lower spin?

Just throwing out an answer here not sure if I'm correct but I'd assume loft decreases the spin on the ball. That's why alot of amateurs get 12* 13* drivers to avoid the ball spinning out of control for more forgiveness. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
 
Just throwing out an answer here not sure if I'm correct but I'd assume loft decreases the spin on the ball. That's why alot of amateurs get 12* 13* drivers to avoid the ball spinning out of control for more forgiveness. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

I'd like to bump the 9.5* head to 10.25* IF I need to but not have crazy spin. My Supertri was rather excessive with spin at times
 
The stock Kai'li is a pretty good shaft if you want a mid kicking shaft. I found it a bit too high launching so ended up with the after mark Kai'li to bring things down a bit.

The RIP is also a lower launching shaft. It's pretty much the mid point between the Project X and the Kai'li in terms of launch and spin. I quite like the 910 with the RIP but the fairways on the west coast have no run out except in the heart of summer so I can't use it as my every day shaft. I did pick one up to swap in and out as needed though. Titleist is offering a pretty sweep deal on the RIP's .

In terms of swing speed we're pretty much the same so I imagine you're spin tendencies will be simliar in terms of the shaft to mine. The RIP will definately be a lower spin shaft then the Kai'li while the Ahina and Project X will be lower still (and heavier). The D2 and D3 heads are also considered low spin heads as well which will help if spin numbers are a concern of yours. Changing the loft on mine didn't change the spin numbers at all, just gets the ball up in the air faster.
 
The stock Kai'li is a pretty good shaft if you want a mid kicking shaft. I found it a bit too high launching so ended up with the after mark Kai'li to bring things down a bit.

The RIP is also a lower launching shaft. It's pretty much the mid point between the Project X and the Kai'li in terms of launch and spin. I quite like the 910 with the RIP but the fairways on the west coast have no run out except in the heart of summer so I can't use it as my every day shaft. I did pick one up to swap in and out as needed though. Titleist is offering a pretty sweep deal on the RIP's .

In terms of swing speed we're pretty much the same so I imagine you're spin tendencies will be simliar in terms of the shaft to mine. The RIP will definately be a lower spin shaft then the Kai'li while the Ahina and Project X will be lower still (and heavier). The D2 and D3 heads are also considered low spin heads as well which will help if spin numbers are a concern of yours. Changing the loft on mine didn't change the spin numbers at all, just gets the ball up in the air faster.

Very much appreciate it! I'll ask them if they could perhaps order me a RIP shaft and let me use the Kai'li until then.

Is there any reason you chose the D2 over the D3?
 
Just looks for me on the D2 over D3. The spin numbers were about 150rpm better with the D3 but such a small number wasn't worth it to me. The D3 just doesn't look right to me eye (it also has a smaller insert behind the face, so less forgiving).

RIP is a standard shaft for these so I imagine you should get it pretty quick.
 
Just looks for me on the D2 over D3. The spin numbers were about 150rpm better with the D3 but such a small number wasn't worth it to me. The D3 just doesn't look right to me eye (it also has a smaller insert behind the face, so less forgiving).

RIP is a standard shaft for these so I imagine you should get it pretty quick.

Thanks for all of the info. I'll be going in tomorrow and swapping my drivers out
 
Hi. Just a question about screws stripping? Does the screw not screw into the shaft and not the head. if so ,would you not strip the adapter in the shaft not the head. this may be a stupid question but Ihaven't seen driver in my hand.
 
Hi. Just a question about screws stripping? Does the screw not screw into the shaft and not the head. if so ,would you not strip the adapter in the shaft not the head. this may be a stupid question but Ihaven't seen driver in my hand.

Yeah the adapter is on the end of the shaft so technically the adapter would be getting stripped, or the screw. Or both.
 
I just purchased the D2 with the "Ahina" Xtra Stiff, lowest torque (2.9). It was between the R11 and the D2 or D3 and I found the D2 to be a better performing club based on numbers. My previous driver was the R9TP and I loved it so switching drivers was tough but I can't say enough about the D2. When you flush it you get instant feedback. Same with a miss hit. I picked the bigger more forgiving head because my swing speed average is 119 with a spin rate of 2500 with the xtra stiff, low torque shaft. 285 - 295 carry with a roll out of about 15-20 yards. The numbers with a stiff shaft and a higher torque was 3400 to 3700 spin and I got no roll out - too much spin. Eventhough I tested the R11 with a stock shaft, the numbers were about the same but I just never got good feedback on flushes or mishits. Can't lose with either driver but I just fell in love with the D2.
 
Wow those are some nice numbers Hound. I can also say I am in love with the D2. Great great driver.
 
Have to say I'm really enjoying mine as well. It's not the longest out there (I hit at least 3 other drivers that were 10 yards longer) but the accuracy is impossible to argue with. At this point, I'll take 10 less yards but twice as many fairways.

Agreed, nice numbers hound!

Cdenning: Most of the complaints I've heard has been of the screw stripping rather then the shaft adapter but it's certainly possible both could bite it.
 
I would not be too worried about the "issues" I truely believe Titleiest would stand by their product if these issues are as serious as people say. I remember about 5 years ago when I bought the Calloway FT3 for $500. They had issues with the plug coming out on higher swing speed golfers. They admitted to me it was a defect and replaced the club without any questions. Like I posted earlier, I love my TM R9TP and felt the numbers on the R11 were about the same as the D2, the feedback from flush and mishits was night and day on the in favor of the D2. Also, when I purchased my R9 a few years ago, the fitter showed me how to adjust the club and warned me to be careful not to tighten the screws too much as they could strip.
 
I am with you on hitting more fairways!
 
Yeah those are great numbers Hound. Id be happy with those numbers on any driver.
 
This driver looks great and sets up nicely but it never performed the way I'd hoped no matter what shaft I tried in it, so I moved on.
 
this is the only other club that I am considering at this point other than the srixon and cleveland ultralite. In fact, if this came with a myazaki shaft there would be no question about it. Especially because no one around here has the srixon.

It is great to hear that everyone is having such great success with this club!
 
Titleist 910 d2 questions??? Any I'lima 61 shaft users? Draw and fade settings?

Titleist 910 d2 questions??? Any I'lima 61 shaft users? Draw and fade settings?

I have a few questions about the 910 d2. How are you liking the I'lima 61 for those that have it? I have only had mine to the range once and it feels great but i am getting some higher than normal ball flights. I realize it is a high launch, high spin shaft but i need more time figuring out my setting. I have a 10.5 set in c3 which makes it an 11.25 which might explain the higher flight as well. Secondly, i dont quite understand the fitting chart. Does a more upright lie promote a draw even though the face may be open .5 or 1.5 degrees or am i reading it wrong. I always thought a closed face angle would encourage a draw. It looks to me like the further left you go with your setting on the chart, the more draw( more upright) and the lower you go the more open(less loft) the club face. Leads me to believe one could have a lower lofted , open faced club with a more upright lie angle thus promiting a draw. Please help! Thanks!
 
merged this with the 910 driver thread. Hopefully some jump in to help.
 
910_chart.jpg


Here is the fitting chart, if you want a lower ball flight I would recommend going to a C-2. The more left you go, the more draw is promoted. If you need more draw than you get right know, flip to D-2?
 
910_chart.jpg


Here is the fitting chart, if you want a lower ball flight I would recommend going to a C-2. The more left you go, the more draw is promoted. If you need more draw than you get right know, flip to D-2?
Thanks Thainer21. My understanding is that the top row from left to right is 1.5 degrees closed. Next row down(d3 thru c4) is .5 degrees closed. Third row down , left to right is .5 degrees open. Last row(d2 thru c1) is 1.5 degrees open. So D2 setting would give me a lower ballflight but a 1.5 degree open face.This promotes a draw? Or is it the more upright lie angle that promotes a draw? I guess i always associated an open face with promoting a fade and a closed face promoting a draw but the chart says otherwise. Am i reading this correctly?
 
Thanks Thainer21. My understanding is that the top row from left to right is 1.5 degrees closed. Next row down(d3 thru c4) is .5 degrees closed. Third row down , left to right is .5 degrees open. Last row(d2 thru c1) is 1.5 degrees open. So D2 setting would give me a lower ballflight but a 1.5 degree open face.This promotes a draw? Or is it the more upright lie angle that promotes a draw? I guess i always associated an open face with promoting a fade and a closed face promoting a draw but the chart says otherwise. Am i reading this correctly?

When you "open" the face you do deloft the club, thus the lower ballflight. You would assume that opening the face would cause more of a fade or a cut but it never really did for me to be honest. By opening the face and making the club more upright, technically, the upright should counteract the openness to an extent. So, yes, being upright helps counter the fades/cuts.
 
One thing is for certain....getting fit for either club in a store will not yield the same results as actual on course performance. I have a tendency to push things right and I just left the Superfast 2.0 TP (which didnt help matters) for the D2 w/RIP. On the LM, I was fit to .75 higher loft and .75 more upright. Same for my 910F. Got them out on the course today and noticed that I the turf marks were all on the heel and that I couldnt hit the fwy like I wanted any my drives were coming up really short.....Got to the range after 9 holes and put both clubs .75 flat and kept the loft and things smoothed out and my distance and feel were back. Amazing how much difference it can make really. On #2 I was thinking, "man, I still haven't found my driver." Think I was wrong.
 
i was fitted for this club and i was swinging on avg 100 mph, hada launch angle of 15.3 and a ball spin of 2120. it was a D2 10.5 on B4 setting. this was his recomendation for me... but i cant remember which shaft i was hitting all i know is that it was blue and is likely either the diamana kai'li or the project X but other than that i have no idea. he kept telling me i needed a higher launch angle untill we used this setting but im not sure on the shaft. any ideas?
 
I have been a Titleist loyalist for as long as I have been playing (10 years). I have always preferred the nice weight that the Titleist heads have offered. I started playing with a Titleist 975 J-VS 9.5 degree (which I loved) and later on got a 907 D2 10.5 degree (which always felt a little lighter than I prefer.)
I was looking to buy a new driver about a month ago and was reading everything about every club I could find. I read everything on this thread before deciding to go get fitted for one of these drivers. The only reason I even signed up with this website was to give everyone another perspective on this wonderful club.
Before going with Titleist, I hit one of the Taylormade R11 drivers on the course a few times. It felt REALLY good. It had a softer impact feel with distance to boot. The ball seemed to rocket off of the face. It was a contender for sure.
One thing that I find strange about Titleist is that I could not find any demo days here in southern Florida! Frustrated that I could not find ANY demos at local courses, I just went to a Golf Smith and hit ones off of the stupid rubber tees that impede feel etc. Even though I did not get to see an actual ball flight, the driver itself felt perfect, balance wise. Nice head weight and feel. I could not get a great feel for impact because of the rubber tees at the store. I decided that it would be my next driver based on the feel (which I base all of my club choices on).
Not wanting to spend $400 (cringe) without testing shafts, I decided to go get fitted for one. Since I live close to the PGA headquarters, I scheduled a fitting with the specialist there. I was happy to find out that getting fit there cost nothing as long as I ordered through them.
The pro had me grab my old 907 D2 (Grafalloy Blue, X-Flex) and put it on the shaft flex machine.
He goes, “Whoa, let me guess, you go right more often, huh”?
“Yeah”, I reply.
“Well, your shaft is as stiff as the hardest hitters on the tour, no wonder you miss right”.
I had purchased the driver used (like all my other clubs), and had not really wanted to mess with the shaft since it felt OK.
The pro brought out the launch monitor and five or six shafts and a couple of 910 heads. He had me hit with my old driver first to get some base readings and noticed that my approach angle was -2 degrees (hitting down too much on the ball). The angle should be positive with the drivers to encourage the ball to launch it into the air. I adjusted and hung back a little more and started launching the ball better.
After a few shots with the old driver he had me hitting with both D2 and D3 with stiff shaft options. I preferred the D3 for feel and the pro agreed that it fit my level of game better.
I ended up with the D3 (10.5 degree) with the Aldila RIP 60 Stiff shaft. It felt like I could not miss. High launching draws that I had been looking for. My previous driver had a tendency to balloon the ball (result of too much backspin due to my negative attack angle, swing flaw, not the driver). This launched it high, but leveled out and kept going for miles. I was hooked.
Now I have played with it for a month (took only a week to ship to my place), and I am so happy I got this club. The feel is phenomenal, on center hits have a pleasing sound. Some say muted sound and some say a “ting”, but its somewhere in the middle, just perfect. Off center hits do not lose much distance, maybe 5 yards for me. I have hit a few on the toe and the club feels to torque in my hand like crazy, but the ball flies a mile and is only on the right edge of the rough, instead of out of bounds.
When getting fitted, I asked the pro about the hosel settings and he replied “You can mess around with those later.” Ummm, ok. This leads me to believe that he does not think it does much. I have played with them a little (between the stock setting and -.75) and found it does affect it a little. I don’t like to mess with left and right at all, I prefer to fix my swing instead of compensating with the club. I have decided to keep the setting at stock (A1, I believe), since my launch angle tends to be lower anyway. The pro explained that the modern drivers are meant to launch the balls higher anyway.
The screw in the hosel does seem a bit "wiggly" when adjusting the settings and I can see how if you pull it out all the way you could strip the screw. I only screwed it out 7-8 turns and it worked fine.
All in all, I am VERY SATISFIED with the driver. Hitting way more fairways and scoring lower because of it.
 
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