Any component club users out there?

A local teaching pro is gaming the Adams Cb2 and loves his set.Likes them better then his former Cb 695's and callaway Forged Cb's.He claims they feel just as soft as his two previous sets.To each their own is all I can say.
 
I just got back into the game (last year) after a 14 year lay-off. I bought a set of Ping G-10's and have since dropped my HC down to a 7. I felt it was time to get a set of "serious" clubs. BUT my biggest problem is that I am hesitant on buying a "serious" set for 1k and not doing well with it. I'm goofy that way. When buying wall paper, I don't know if I will like it until I see it on the wall. With clubs, I can't tell exactly by just using them at the simulator.
I looked at the Mizuno's and Nike's but eventually decided on getting a set of Maltby F2 Tricepts. They have a blade look but they have a Maltby rating of 550 whereas the Mizunos are rated at 350-390.

For $300, I figured I could try them and see how well I do with them and if I can't hit them well, then $300 is not too much of an investment. If I do like them, then I might keep them or then step up to getting an OEM. If I do get OEM afterwards, I would at least have some more confidence in my purchase.

They are arriving today so I will keep you informed.

I was able to try my new Maltby irons yesterday. The set came with 3-PW. I took them to the range first (off the mats) and obviously they had a different feel then my Ping G-10's. They are a blade style that has more forgivness than a true blade. According to Maltby, the long irons have a different weight displacement, then the short irons to allow even MORE forgiveness. As I started hitting the short irons, I immediatley noticed the forgiveness on off-center hits, while still getting good feedback. I even hit the long irons well. In fact well enough to try them on the course instead of my hybrids. I was concerned about the long irons and not getting a split set, but so far I am not having too much trouble hitting the 3 & 4 iron.
Course play: - The front nine was a bit of a learning experience. I hit a couple of approach shots long since I am getting a little more distance than with my G-10's. The back nine was better ( 2 over ), as I got used to the clubs. The one thing that really impressed me was my divots. I'm a bit of a digger and with the G-10 (wide soles) my divots would be deep and inconsistent. They might be thin at the beginning and thick at the end and also narrow at the beginning and wide at the end. With the Maltby's, they were all very consistent. Not too deep and very uniformed. When hitting the sweet spot, although the feel was good, it didn't have that 'soft as butter' feel. All in all, I really like the clubs and am anxious to go out again. Here are some photos and a description from Maltby.

"The Maltby Tricept F2 Forged muscles back shows how we can take a great blade profile and redistribute the weight to make a blade design more playable. More than just another pretty blade, the Maltby Tricept F2 Forged irons offer Game Improvement playability in a unique muscle back design."
 
I have been building clubs for myself and friends for about 12 years now. I have honed in on a few companies that use very good foundries in China and manufacture to very tight specs. Tom Wishon's components are the best, in my opinion, followed by Hireko (Dynacraft and Acer irons). Golfsmith's Snake Eyes line is very solid also.:D
 
Is there not a question out there asking if the stamped loft on OEM drivers are true loft?, I remember reading somewhere that component drivers like Wishon and Geek were measured to be far more acurate than OEM lofts.
 
Is there not a question out there asking if the stamped loft on OEM drivers are true loft?, I remember reading somewhere that component drivers like Wishon and Geek were measured to be far more acurate than OEM lofts.

There are many articles lately in the major pubs indicating that "just because your OEM driver says 10.5 on the sole, doesn't mean it ain't really a 12 degree loft". You can get hand selects from companies like Tom Wishon - they might charge you a little, but they will pull components and measure until they get the exact (or close to it) loft or lie you want. I measure all my component heads when they arrive and the 'good' companies products are typically very close to quoted spec.
 
Back
Top