We've launched the new forums! Read more here

Golf course conditions, ask the specialist.

miketurf

miketurf

New member
Joined
Aug 5, 2010
Messages
22
Reaction score
0
Handicap
16
Miketurf is a golf course consultant and has worked in the field of golf course construction and maintenance for over 27 years. This year has been especially brutal on turf across the country. Ask me questions on golf course conditions and I’ll try to answer.

Cheers
 
Welcome to THP, mike!

How long does it take to regrow grass on a teebox after it has been hacked up?
 
Welcome to THP Mike! I have a question for you about grain. We always hear the commentators talking about the grain goes this way and that way and it will make the putt fast, slow, break etc. I have a golf course superintendent buddy who tells me that is all hog wash, grain doesn't actually effect the putts nearly as much as what they're talking about. What is your take on grain?

Glad to have you on board btw!!!
 
Welcome to THP. When the course grass is mowed is there ever a reason to not remove the clippings?
 
Bentgrass, Ryegrass or Zoysia? With the seeded varieties about ten days to two weeks, provided the tee is large enough for proper rotation (no further traffic for germination). Often times we mix soil, sand, seed and a starter fertilizer together to fill in divots.

Bermuda and Zoysia we just add a sand or soil mix to level the area and the underground plant parts re-grow new leaf.

I hope that answers your question.

Miketurf
 
Clipping removal for large turf areas is certainly a problem, especially on fairway turf (Bermuda in summer months after fertilization). Heavy clippings can be blown off fairways and tees or with fairway turf can be dragged into the canopy with a length of chain or specially made drag nets behind the mower. Some high budget golf courses do pick-up clipping but its very labor intensive.

Miketurf
 
do you prefer to leave your rakes in or out of the bunker......hehe
 
btw, welcome to THP, i think it's awesome that you are here!!!
 
Just a few months ago I was in your neck of the woods at Southern Hills in Hot Springs; nice course!

Grain is an issue that’s very controversial. There is no doubt that most greens surfaces can develop a grain or direction to which the turf will “lay”. Golf course superintendents have many methods that prevent turf from developing grain. Mowing in different directions will help the turf stand-up. Grooved front rollers help prevent the turf from developing longer leaf blades. Vertical mowing or verti-cutting slices into the turf canopy keeping the turf blades shorter and preventing long “runners” or excessive stolen length. Topdressing raises the “crown” or the part of the plant that holds the turf leaf, preventing the plant from laying-over. Brushing pulls-up the plant from lying over and behind the brush the mower will cut the tuffs. Groomers are an add-on piece / part for greens mowers that lightly slice a vertical cut into just the top of the plant to keep the plant for developing long turf leaf blades.

The question is can grain make a putt act different with or against or from side to side; I would say yes, especially tour pros that play the game at a much higher level than you and I.

On several occasions when I prepared a golf course for a PGA event the advance staff was very concerned with maintenance practices that will eliminate grain and keep turf upright, greens rolling consistent, smooth and at a prescribed speed. One analogy would be a ball rolling on a carpet, the shorter and more upright the pile the faster and smoother the ball will roll, shag carpet doesn’t put well!

I hope I answered your question.

Miketurf
 
Spraying turf to prevent turfgrass diseases in stressful summer months is imperative! Fungicides just reduce the population of the fungus, they do not eliminate them. Hot and humid weather is idea for fungal activity and a preventive spray program is highly advised. In the spring and summer, if the superintendent decides, a curative spray may be all that’s needed.

I hope this answers your question,
Miketurf
 
About Bunker Rakes:

Rules say "out" and in the direction of play but for ease of maintenance (mowing) in!

Miketurf
 
Last edited:
Puttin4Bird said:
Welcome to THP Mike! I have a question for you about grain. We always hear the commentators talking about the grain goes this way and that way and it will make the putt fast, slow, break etc. I have a golf course superintendent buddy who tells me that is all hog wash, grain doesn't actually effect the putts nearly as much as what they're talking about. What is your take on grain?

Glad to have you on board btw!!!
Click to expand...

I can offer sonething to this one too. If you ever play on medium length Bermuda you will see that grain is a very real issue in some cases. In South Dakota you probably don't see that sort of grain, but if you ever play in the south I'd advise putting in some time on the practice green before heading out to play. I find that to be a necessity when going from our relatively grain free northern turf grasses to the land of Bermuda grass. Learning to read the grain is also a must.
 
miketurf said:
Just a few months ago I was in your neck of the woods at Southern Hills in Hot Springs; nice course!

Grain is an issue that’s very controversial. There is no doubt that most greens surfaces can develop a grain or direction to which the turf will “lay”. Golf course superintendents have many methods that prevent turf from developing grain. Mowing in different directions will help the turf stand-up. Grooved front rollers help prevent the turf from developing longer leaf blades. Vertical mowing or verti-cutting slices into the turf canopy keeping the turf blades shorter and preventing long “runners” or excessive stolen length. Topdressing raises the “crown” or the part of the plant that holds the turf leaf, preventing the plant from laying-over. Brushing pulls-up the plant from lying over and behind the brush the mower will cut the tuffs. Groomers are an add-on piece / part for greens mowers that lightly slice a vertical cut into just the top of the plant to keep the plant for developing long turf leaf blades.

The question is can grain make a putt act different with or against or from side to side; I would say yes, especially tour pros that play the game at a much higher level than you and I.

On several occasions when I prepared a golf course for a PGA event the advance staff was very concerned with maintenance practices that will eliminate grain and keep turf upright, greens rolling consistent, smooth and at a prescribed speed. One analogy would be a ball rolling on a carpet, the shorter and more upright the pile the faster and smoother the ball will roll, shag carpet doesn’t put well!

I hope I answered your question.

Miketurf
Click to expand...

Thanks Mike! That answered it quite well actually! Yeah the part about the tour pros playing the game at a much higher level than us is probably the biggest factor in it. A difference that I may not even realize was there could be a huge factor for them.

Thanks again!
 
Fourputt said:
I can offer sonething to this one too. If you ever play on medium length Bermuda you will see that grain is a very real issue in some cases. In South Dakota you probably don't see that sort of grain, but if you ever play in the south I'd advise putting in some time on the practice green before heading out to play. I find that to be a necessity when going from our relatively grain free northern turf grasses to the land of Bermuda grass. Learning to read the grain is also a must.
Click to expand...

That's exactly why pros hate the bermuda swing, just wait for the comments on East Lake this year at the Fed Ex.
 
Hi Mike,

I play in England and we suffer from frost quite often in the winter. My local course often puts on temporary greens in these conditions and I have heard about the grass getting 'burnt' by people walking on them while frosty.
I then went to Wentworth a few years ago, a top championship course and we played on the greens while they were completely frozen.

Can you tell me how much damage can be done by using frosty greens, I'm sure Wentworth wouldn't have let us hackers ruin their pristine short grass !

Cheers.
 
I usually try to replace my divots when I'm playing because I walk most of my rounds, so I'm not carrying around divot mix and don't have access to it on a cart. Are there any types of grasses where it is better to not replace the divot and just let it heal on it's own? I seem to remember a caddie telling me about that on Paspalum, but I could be wrong.
 
arydolphin said:
I usually try to replace my divots when I'm playing because I walk most of my rounds, so I'm not carrying around divot mix and don't have access to it on a cart. Are there any types of grasses where it is better to not replace the divot and just let it heal on it's own? I seem to remember a caddie telling me about that on Paspalum, but I could be wrong.
Click to expand...

Bermuda is a type of grass that grows underground and doesn't mend at the root like bentgrass. That type of grass explodes when a divot is taken, the best way to know if you should replace it is if a sleeve of grass comes off your club like a dollar bill, put it back. If a divot explodes you usually put sand in it. That's how I know what to do. If you are not sure what type of grass is in the fairway you should ask the pro shop before heading out to be sure you are doing what you need to help repair the grounds.
 
Lynford said:
Hi Mike,
I play in England and we suffer from frost quite often in the winter. My local course often puts on temporary greens in these conditions and I have heard about the grass getting 'burnt' by people walking on them while frosty.
I then went to Wentworth a few years ago, a top championship course and we played on the greens while they were completely frozen.

Can you tell me how much damage can be done by using frosty greens, I'm sure Wentworth wouldn't have let us hackers ruin their pristine short grass !

Cheers.
Click to expand...

Lynford:
If greens are frozen solid, the soil or sand below, the turf plant is generally dormant and in most situations it cannot be damaged. When a frost occurs when turf is still actively growing the cells in the leaf and crown of the plant are mostly liquid. If the frost is severe enough the leaf and crown of the plant under foot traffic can shatter, like stepping on an ice cube causing the individual cells to shatter and turn black. In most cases the plant can recover but the putting surface will be severely compromised by black intended foot prints.

So, totally frozen, grass dormant, frost covered, grass alive and very susceptible to damage.

I hope this cleared-up the frozen truth!
 
solidkjames said:
Bermuda is a type of grass that grows underground and doesn't mend at the root like bentgrass. That type of grass explodes when a divot is taken, the best way to know if you should replace it is if a sleeve of grass comes off your club like a dollar bill, put it back. If a divot explodes you usually put sand in it. That's how I know what to do. If you are not sure what type of grass is in the fairway you should ask the pro shop before heading out to be sure you are doing what you need to help repair the grounds.
Click to expand...

Solidkjames has got it right:
Warm season turf like Bermuda, Zoysia and Paspalum regenerate through underground stolens and rhizomes just a sprinkle of sand in the divot is the best way to repair those divots. Bentgrass, bluegrass and ryegrass should be repaired with a seed and soil mixture.

Just good golf etiquette to rake your footprints from sand bunkers; repair your divots and pitchmarks, right?

I hope this answered your question.

Miketurf
 
Should we replace our divots in the fairway? If so, for which grasses? There's been some heated discussion about this...
 
sacul1573 said:
Should we replace our divots in the fairway? If so, for which grasses? There's been some heated discussion about this...
Click to expand...

Let’s turn down the heat!

The general rule is to replace cool season turf divots if there whole, if they have be blown apart in a million little grassy parts use the seed and soil bottle supplied on most carts. These include:
• Ryegrass
• Creeping Bent Grass
• Bluegrass

Warm season grasses should be treated with just a filler to help maintain a level lie, fill the depression and step down; these turf varieties include:
• Bermuda Grass
• Zoysia Grass
• Sea Shore Paspalum
• Kikuyu Grass
• Centipede grass

Maintaining the course is part of the game of golf!
 
loving this thread. v.informative. welcome to the forum mike.
 
Br1an_g said:
loving this thread. v.informative. welcome to the forum mike.
Click to expand...

Agreed! Some great info here.... maybe dispel a few myths.

Next topic... pitch mark repair. I rarely see anyone do it correctly, yet they are utterly convinced that what they do (prying up from under the crater) leaves the green better that what I do (pressing in around the perimeter of the crater). In the short term they may be right, as the green looks better immediately, but most often dies in that spot and takes longer to heal in the long run.

Am I right Mike???
 
Hey Mike, I just wanted to say welcome! You have already proven to be an added asset to THP. You opened a can of worms, I hope your fingers are ready to type! hehe. Thanks for all of this wonderful info. One thing I heard is that on bermuda grass, if the green is shiney you are going withthe grain, if its dark, you are against the grain. Thats my two cents. hehe
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top