Well recently i've been having a very hard time with my 58* cg15 wedge......with my AW at 51* I am great with it from 100 yards and in.....and I bought the 58* for about 50 yards in........but I have an extremly hard time with getting the ball up in the air with the cg15.....No problems what so ever with the 51* AW i can usually stick it pretty well (especially when i open it up) but i get better spin with the 58* cg15.......So i would like to know what i am doing wrong, or how the setup should be for the 58* so that i can get it up in the air then back down like my 51* AW......when i try full swings with the cg15 they are usually worm burners straigh to the right.......
Problems with wedges!
provisional
Could Care Less
Just a guess on my part but you might be letting your hands/arms arrive to early to impact, in your down swing....swinging your hands, and arms faster than your body is turning so to speak. This can allow the club to be past it's low point when it contacts the ball and on it's upswing, causing those worm burners. I am assuming you are using the same ball position, grip, and set up with all your wedges. Focus on a one piece take away, and your weight shift on the down swing. Too bad you can't post a video of your swing which would help identify the problem faster. It could also be that your 58* has too much bounce for the turf conditions you are using it on. You could just be bouncing the club head into the back of the ball. Lot's issues can cause a topped shot.
- Thread starter
- #3
Re: Problems with wedges!
I got the lowest bounce possible because of my turn conditions and compact sand. I'll try what you said tomorrow. Anyone else with any suggestions?!
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provisional said:
I got the lowest bounce possible because of my turn conditions and compact sand. I'll try what you said tomorrow. Anyone else with any suggestions?!
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TheGasman
I Like to Party
Are you trying to help the ball up maybe? I used to skull alot of balls over greens from having too much weight on my back leg. The one thing I concentrate on most with my wedges, is to get almost all of my weight on my front leg.
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- #5
Re: Problems with wedges!
I'll try that tomorrow thanks gas! I am using the same hand and weight position as I do for my AW. That is what is getting me so confused.
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TheGasman said:
I'll try that tomorrow thanks gas! I am using the same hand and weight position as I do for my AW. That is what is getting me so confused.
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- Thread starter
- #6
Well i tried again with the wedge yesterday and I was hitting it better......But i got to thinking when we say "i use that wedge for around the green" do we mean from the fringe? From 10-15 feet out? I think I am expecting a lot more yardage from the 58* than I should be.....like I stated before the 51* AW i have no problem sticking to the green..from 50-100 yards...any thoughts? Also would the grass that i'm hitting it from be a problem with getting it up in the air as well? I chip from a very fluffy/wet (it rained here the past week) practice area and it almost feels like the wedge is getting stuck in the ground and not letting me follow thru......any suggestions or comments?
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C-Tech
New member
When I have had trouble with blading my wedges, it has been tempo. The tendency with the shorter, more lofted club is to try to swing faster to get more distance. I would try half swings working on tempo until I was making clean contact and then work my way to the full swing. Also, there is a tendency to decelerate on these shots, so I practice finishing my swing up to the same height of my backswing to keep the clubhead moving through impact.
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- #8
Good idea i'll try that as well.....with all of that said, i don't understand why i have no problem with my 51* and do with the 58*......practice practice practice i guess.......maybe i should just stick with using my 51* for 50-100 yards in and just the 58* for within 10 yards of the green.......I have also heard about opening my stance up as well when using the 58* any suggestions about that?
C-Tech
New member
I open my stance slightly with lofted wedges and open the face a bit as well. I was having a problem with pulling them, but got BigLefty to flatten them 2 degrees for me and that did the trick. Almost any higher lofted club is harder to hit consistently. The lob (58 or 60) just requires more practice than any other club, I think.
thedue
Another Day in Paradise
C-Tech hit that one right. When I change my tempo trying to push the ball a bit, it's easy to sway back in my swing and shove my club head out ahead of my hands. If I can take the wrists out of play, open up a very small amount, excelerate through the ball with my hand ahead at impact and finish just left of my target line I can usually count on the shot. Let the club do the work. Don't try to help it get airborn.
Good luck.
Good luck.
provisional
Could Care Less
If you have not ironed out the problem by the time we all meet up February 13th, perhaps we can look at your problem first hand. You are going to be there right? For now I would visit the various websites on chipping/pitching techniques. Perhaps after reading some of those articles, or including THP's instructor's insight, you might discover what you are doing wrong with that club. You can hit your 51* ok, but not your 58*. Obviously there is something being done differently between the two clubs when you use them.
As for "around the green" that is probably relative to the individual golfer. To me it means close enough to the green where a full swing is not required, regardless of what ever club can be used.
As for "around the green" that is probably relative to the individual golfer. To me it means close enough to the green where a full swing is not required, regardless of what ever club can be used.
sacul1573
What's a GIR?
Opening your stance will help get your hip out of the way earlier in the swing, kinda like what Prov was mentioning earlier. I tend to hit my wedges at about 75-85% power, meaning I sacrifice a few yards of distance, but dont worry about my hands getting there too early or other mechanics...
Remember, these are scoring clubs, not distance clubs... accuracy and reliability are paramount. If only I did what I preach!
Remember, these are scoring clubs, not distance clubs... accuracy and reliability are paramount. If only I did what I preach!
bobcat
Avid Golfer
Sounds to me like...
Sounds to me like...
You are a great candidate for the 56* Cleveland Niblick...:act-up:
Doubt there is a better club than that from 50 yards in, and the Niblick would resolve any problem with inconsistent face contact. Give it a go...I did and I love it!
Like many others...if you try it, you'll like it...:banana:
Sounds to me like...
You are a great candidate for the 56* Cleveland Niblick...:act-up:
Doubt there is a better club than that from 50 yards in, and the Niblick would resolve any problem with inconsistent face contact. Give it a go...I did and I love it!
Like many others...if you try it, you'll like it...:banana:
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- Thread starter
- #14
thanks man i'm almost wondering if I should have just gone with the 56....
tee it high
In the Great White North
Like has already been stated your tempo is key but don't forget to swing as well. A lot of people at 100 yards take out an "attack" wedge and take a full swing with lots of purpose and intention...once you get inside 50 yards your thinking about being a touch player and getting that ball up and down and close to the pin because you are so close to the green.
My recommendation is to go to the range and hit about 10 balls with the 58* club. Full swings...don't hold anything back and see what happens...then take that "max" yardage swing and dial it back a bit to find the range that you need. Practice those 3/4 wedges on the range and I bet the number of skulled shots will decrease.
The full swing will help to stop you from lifting up which is normally the root cause of a wedge blading the ball. We want to see the ball going up into the air so you lift your front shoulder as you turn you head to watch the ball sail through the air! Keeping your head down is not the answer...keeping your shoulders on line is!
My recommendation is to go to the range and hit about 10 balls with the 58* club. Full swings...don't hold anything back and see what happens...then take that "max" yardage swing and dial it back a bit to find the range that you need. Practice those 3/4 wedges on the range and I bet the number of skulled shots will decrease.
The full swing will help to stop you from lifting up which is normally the root cause of a wedge blading the ball. We want to see the ball going up into the air so you lift your front shoulder as you turn you head to watch the ball sail through the air! Keeping your head down is not the answer...keeping your shoulders on line is!
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- #16
I wonder if it is possible just to get it bent to 56* any thought?
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- #17
Thanks man, yeh i'll definetly be there.....and hopefully i can get it worked out by then.......if not i'll see if you can help me1
bobcat
Avid Golfer
You can usually bend forged wedges, but not cast ones, so likely not an opton for you...:bad:
- Thread starter
- #19
Ok thanks man i guess i'm just going to have to figure out how to use it like any other club..... I also noticed that when hitting the cg15 58* wedge compared to the x-22 AW that it felt different.....the AW just feels like the rest of my set while the 58* feels like a whole different club.....
bobcat
Avid Golfer
Just guessing, but if the feel is different....
Just guessing, but if the feel is different....
Could be the Cleveland "Wedge Flex" shaft in the CG15/58*. Wedge flex ususally means VERY STIFF and therefore the CG15 shaft may be a much stiffer flex than the shafts in your iron set and AW. That would certainly make the feel at impact much different for you. The solution would be to re-shaft the CG15 using the same shaft and flex as that of your AW.
For what its worth, you can order Cleveland wedges customized to your specs through many Retailers. Cleveland Golf has a wide array of shaft choices and grips available. (Golfsmith is one example of a Retailer who does this on through their website).
If you were to customize a Cleveland CG15 on the Golfsmith website, it would be shipped to you directly from Cleveland Golf with the custom specs you gave to Golfsmith. (Golfsmith just forwards the specs to them). In fact, I just ordered a Niblick short game hybrid for my wife that way because the stock shaft spec would not have worked well for her.
:banana:
Just guessing, but if the feel is different....
Could be the Cleveland "Wedge Flex" shaft in the CG15/58*. Wedge flex ususally means VERY STIFF and therefore the CG15 shaft may be a much stiffer flex than the shafts in your iron set and AW. That would certainly make the feel at impact much different for you. The solution would be to re-shaft the CG15 using the same shaft and flex as that of your AW.
For what its worth, you can order Cleveland wedges customized to your specs through many Retailers. Cleveland Golf has a wide array of shaft choices and grips available. (Golfsmith is one example of a Retailer who does this on through their website).
If you were to customize a Cleveland CG15 on the Golfsmith website, it would be shipped to you directly from Cleveland Golf with the custom specs you gave to Golfsmith. (Golfsmith just forwards the specs to them). In fact, I just ordered a Niblick short game hybrid for my wife that way because the stock shaft spec would not have worked well for her.
:banana:
Dirt_Guy
I dig holes.
Re: Problems with wedges!
Your X-22 AW is a cavity back iron, right? It will have a larger sweet-spot and more forgiveness than the blade style cg15. I can't take full swings with my blade style wedges because of the inconsistenty of my swing.
Your X-22 AW is a cavity back iron, right? It will have a larger sweet-spot and more forgiveness than the blade style cg15. I can't take full swings with my blade style wedges because of the inconsistenty of my swing.